Cold roast beef and a light Loire red

If you see the words roast beef you might automatically think of a full-bodied red - a Bordeaux or cabernet sauvignon, for instance - but there are times, as last week, when a light red will work just as well.

We were in a modern bistro in Paris called Collier de la Reine which serves small plates, as almost all restaurants do these days, one of which was a dish they described as ‘roast beef, potatoes, horseradish’.

It seemed a bit bizarre to order such a very English dish in the French capital but I was intrigued and in fact it was served in a very Parisian way - rare, bordering on raw and tiède as the French put it. Meaning at ambient temperature. Not quite cold but not exactly warm either.

With it I ordered a glass of A Contre Courant a natural wine from the Loire made from Pinot Meunier, Gamay, Cabernet Franc and Cot - interestingly a 2020 vintage although it still tasted remarkably fresh and was perfect with the rare meat.

Unfortunately that vintage only seems to be available in Japan although you can buy the 2018 vintage for £28 from Dynamic Vines whose website carries a good description of the background to the wine.

Other similar light Loire reds should work too.

See also Which Wine - or Beer - to Pair with Roast Beef 

The Best Food Pairings for Cabernet Franc

Hake with white asparagus, smoked caviar and gamay

You might instinctively reach for a glass of white wine with hake but red wine can work equally well. And not only when it has a red wine sauce.

This dish at The Blue Pelican in Deal which, despite the name, is an excellent Japanese restaurant, came with white asparagus, smoked Petrossian caviar and a sauce which I’m guessing included miso and mirin.

It was richly umami anyway which made it a an obvious pairing with the orange Beaujolais they had listed on the short, smart wine by the glass list.

But it was the red - a Domaine St Cyr ‘La Galoche’ Gamay from the same region that was the greater surprise, complementing the hake without overpowering the delicate flavour of the asparagus or the caviar.

It was, also a great match with a dish of pork belly with cockles and sansho pepper but then gamay almost always works with pork.

Although we kicked off with a white - an A Desconhecida Arinto blanco - you could perfectly well drink a red like this throughout a Japanese meal.

You can buy the La Galoche from Uncharted Wine for £20.29 or £21.95 from Cork & Cask in Edinburgh

For other Beaujolais pairings see Top Food Matches for Beaujolais (and other gamay) 

Roast lamb and unoaked grenache

Roast lamb goes with practically any red wine you care to drink with it but grenache is a less common pairing than, say, cabernet sauvignon or tempranillo.

It might also strike you as unusual that this dish was from a dinner at Tillingham winery in Sussex who you might have thought would have had their own red but it had sold out so they’d listed this intriguing organic grenache from Domaine Julien d’Abrigeon called Coquelicot (meaning poppy)

According to Vin-Clairs, the online retailer that sells it in the UK it’s made from fruit that used to go to the great Rhône producer J Chave for whom d’Abrigeon used to work.

It’s a beautifully balanced vibrant red that wears its alcohol lightly but had the richness and structure to stand up to the red wine and rosemary jus that accompanied the lamb along with some seared wild garlic, morels and crispy potato skins (as well as mash, which delighted this potato lover!)

It was made with indigenous yeasts and very little added sulphur so basically classifies as a natural wine though it was gloriously clean and pure.

With that back story though it should come as no surprise that it costs £30.40 a bottle although interestingly it’s under £20 in the US (at K & L). Taxes on wine in the UK are brutal.

For other lamb pairings see my Top Wine Pairings for Lamb 

And for other grenache pairings, The best food pairings for grenache 

Korean Bulgogi and Mencia

Given the overall punchiness of Korean food, you might think pairing it with red wine was a lost cause but as it’s often beef you’re dealing with, especially in a Korean barbecue restaurant, don’t let that put you off.

As part of my researches into wine pairings for Korean food I tried bulgogi twice last week, once at a London restaurant called Chung’dam and the other at an excellent local Bristol restaurant called Dongnae.

It’s a dish of thinly sliced meat marinated in soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil, garlic, ginger and Asian pear then grilled on a tabletop burner or over a barbecue. So it’s deeply umami rather than hot but accompanied by sides and condiments including, typically, a soybean paste dipping sauce (ssamjang), raw garlic and chilli and kimchi and other pickles which you would think would be challenging.

Surprisingly the bulgogi marinade is powerful enough that they don’t throw the wine - in the case of Chung’dam a basic South African red from Journey’s End and at Dongnae an organic, low intervention 2022 Mencia from Bierzo in northern Spain called Quite from an impressively widely travelled woman winemaker called Veronica Ortega. It was definitely the more interesting wine of the two although the good news is that most full-bodied reds will go with bulgogi.

You can buy it from The Whisky Exchange online for £25.75 and from Cave in Bristol for £27.40

For other mencia pairings see here.